Saturday, April 7, 2012

Northern Invasion Second Leg - Palaui, Ika'y Mapapangiti (Part 2)


The first part will complete the story about my Palaui Island experience.

Before we went to sleep last night, we all agreed that we will start trekking to the lighthouse at 5am. They set the alarm clock at 4am and when it rang, Bea and Marvin woke up but because it's still very dark and we are very tired from yesterday's activities, the alarm clock was reset to 5:30. Come 5:30, Bea was the first to wake up but I was the first one to get out of the tent. We located our tent in an inclined plane and when we woke up, we were singing 'Rolling in the Deep'. All night, we tried to keep ourselves from rolling. I woke Marvin up, sleeping in another tent, we need his help in preparing breakfast since I do not know how to operate that mountaineer's stove and he said 'thank you'. Then I remembered that he likes to see the sunrise and taking pictures inspired by its majestic colors. We were talking to each other when I felt something different with my eyes, when I looked at the mirror, I have swollen eyelids, I don't know why. I rushed to the sink to wash my face then checked out the mirror again but nothing changed. Waaaah, I dont think it was caused by an insect. So I just proceeded in preparing breakfast, then I realized Marvin's not in the camp site anymore. I knew he went to the beach, I told you. Here are some pictures he took.
Photos by Maveric
When Marvin came back, we cooked tuna with egg. Hot coffee or chocolate and sliced bread completed our breakfast.
Palaui Island breakfast
We then cleaned the utensils and Marvin confirmed the time when the boat will fetch us at the beach near the lighthouse with the dispatcher  since there is no signal up there. Finally, we brought our tents down and prepared for the highlight of this trip, Cape Engaño.
ang joke ni Marvin dito: kinakain siya ng tent
But there is no trekking just yet. We need a tour guide and we have learned that a camping fee should be settled first. We paid 150 pesos per person (para ka ba ring nagcheck-in sa inn). The tour guides arrived, just in time after we paid the camping fee. Ratio for guides and tourists is 1:4 but there are 5 of us, so we negotiated to have only one guide but the ratio is strictly implemented. We had two tour guides in the end and we made the right decision because they helped Bea and I with our bags. One of our tour guides, Edison takes nice pictures plus they are really, really kind. The tourist-guide ratio and the number of people allowed per boat are the reasons why I would recommend that when planning to go to the island, you should as much as possible try to form a group of at least 8. You'll be able to save a lot more.
all the bags are packed, ready to go
We started trekking to the lighthouse at around 8:30 am. At the beginning, we took the same way as that of yesterday when we went to see the waterfalls. We passed by the beach and took some pictures. In our subject last semester, there is this requirement where we have to assess the environmental impacts of some projects. By the end of the semester, we presented to some significant people in the university our assessment of one particular project inside the campus. For that occasion, we had custom made yellow shirts. Only Bea, Marvin and I have that shirt, but we borrowed one from our classmate, and it was a perfect fit for Vincent. Incidentally, the tour guides are wearing yellow shirts too but of different shade, so we felt like tour guides for a day.
Palaui Tour Guides
Before we got to the trail, Bea and I bought some bottled water. While we were buying, I had the chance to observe the children from the fishing community playing. Since it's summer, meaning vacation from school, I think they spend most of their days outside the house, enjoying their time with playmates. In the island, there is a public elementary school but for high school, students would have to cross the seas everyday just to attend classes. They must have wanted finishing high school so badly in order to graduate and I am proud to say that our tour guide, Edison, was able to graduate from high school despite the obstacles.
hanging out
So we continued trekking, we reached the point where the two trails are, we took the Lagunzad trail which is the easier way to get to Cape Engaño. We passed by the hanging bridge again, my favorite part.
troubled bridge over calm water
The trek was relatively easy compared to the trails I have seen before, there are some parts that are really steep. However, there are no cliffs around so I just needed to concentrate on not slipping, besides, there are a lot of trees and roots that I can grasp to avoid sliding. It was also sunny that day, the trail is pretty dry. I can just imagine the drama we'll get ourselves into if its raining and the trail would be muddy. I don't think going barefoot is an option because there are many twigs on the ground which will cause wounds for sure.
going up
On the way, we marveled at the treasures of Palaui Island. Imagine browsing though a travel magazine but pictures are brought to life. Palaui is just so blessed and there is no easier way to see the blue and white hue of the beach, the graceful roots of towering trees hugging the earth, branches reaching out to the skies, deep green backgound and so much more all in one day.
the colors of Palaui (Photos taken by Marvin)
happy bakod
When we finished going up the slopes, we reached the top of the hill where Dos Hermanas Island can be viewed. We took some pictures and suddenly it started raining. So we picked up the pace and continued walking.


Dos Hermanas Island with raindrops on the camera lens
Then we got into the woods again and after 5 minutes beneath the canopy, we already saw Cape Engaño from afar plus the rain stopped. We sang "Rolling in the Deep" because the rolling hill is right before our very eyes (Rolling in the Deep is the song of the day). The feeling of seeing such a view is like finding something that has been missing for so long. For this amazing backdrop, we began shooting our video. Well, we always shoot a video whenever we visit places. We dance and lip sync to the tune of the old promotional jingle of the Department of Tourism  "Tara na, Byahe Tayo" (Come, Let's Travel). We are still in the process of gathering more clips for our grand production which will be a compilation of the places we'll be seeing together as a group. Going back to the shooting, we stayed at the foot of the rolling hills until we got the perfect shot. These are just some of the fabulous photos.



carabaos in the wild
In 10 minutes or so, we'll be able to set foot to Cape Engaño. It was almost lunch time and we have not yet taken in food after our sliced bread breakfast so we went to the beach where some snacks and halo-halo are sold before going to the lighthouse, what can you say about having halo-halo for lunch?

halo-halo with elbow macaroni by the beach
And because we have two guides, we left our bags with one guide in the beach and the other one went with us to the top of the hill. Before we left, our guide said "Ingat kayo sa taas." I suddenly felt fear creeping in, so I asked why, he said because the second half of the way to the top is not paved anymore, so here are slippery slopes but there are no trees to hold on to if I lose my balance, I'm afraid of heights, remember? So we went on, there is a stairway going up then we reached the point our guide is talking about, steep grassland. We waited for Bea and Marvin who are lagging behind at the top of the stairs, Vincent, Byrone and I took some pictures while waiting.
oh so nice...mad waves
andyan na po
The view was breathtaking, but the wind will blow you away as well, it was so strong. When they reached where the three of us are we had some group pictures courtesy of our guide, Edison.
right side

left side...everywhere you look is a picturesque view
We continued walking, we are almost at the lighthouse.

After 5 minutes, we're there...Cape Engaño.
remnants of the past
When we got there, we took a loooooot of pictures, Edison helped us of course.
ang parola
So we stayed there for almost an hour, taking pictures, enjoying the view, trying to take home with us as much memories as we could. Then, it started raining again, we rushed to go down because the way might get slippery. We got to the beach by 2pm and our boat is not yet there, when we talked to the dispatcher through phone this morning, we agreed that the boat should be there by 1:30. We sought refuge from the rain under the trees, and had the second part of our lunch, sausage, tuna and sliced bread again.
tuna and sausage for lunch


After 1 hour of waiting, our boat arrived. We're off to Siwangag cove and some other places included in the package. When I got to the boat, I was really praying that the seas would be calm, just like when we were sailing to Palaui Island from San Vicente Port, and fortunately, it stopped raining. 

all aboard

Siwangag cove is located at the other side of the island, so technically, we'll just go around the island to get there. But, it started raining again when we got a little far from land into the sea, the waves were huge and we felt the boat wiggle. No one was talking and we were just freezing because we're all wet already. Then I verbalized what I was thinking "saan ba tayo pupunta? tumuloy na lang tayo sa port, ang lakas ng alon", then it turned out that everybody was having the same thoughts, but we did not back out anymore because we are almost there. Well, I must say, I was never disappointed that we continued. When we got to the cove, there are columns near the shore, they said, it was for the planned port which did not materialize. There are also cottages where people can stay while they are enjoying the beach. It was a nice view as well, despite the gloomy skies, I can just imagine how beautiful it would be here if it's really sunny.

Siwangag Cove
We got into the boat again en route to Anguib beach, but... strong waves continued battering our small boat and it started to rain harder, I'll never ever forget that kind of rain. The raindrops were really accelerating to the face of the earth, needle-like, poking through the skin. So we gave up and headed back to the port, we did not see the Boracay of the north, but at least we got to see a school of flying fish, it felt like seeing a shooting star, so fast that before you realize you're in awe, the moment is already gone. Suddenly, something flying fast appeared in front of the boat, at first i thought those were birds and when they returned back to the sea, we all shouted, "flying fish". They were blue and yellow in color. I guess that's a good enough consolation.
our very small boat endured these waves
When we got to the port, we were just so happy to have not died of drowning. The dispatcher was negotiating with us if we want to complete the package, he'll assign a bigger boat to us. Byrone wanted to continue, but I never really wanted to risk going out there again. If I'll try to see all the nice places now thinking that we'll never get to this place again, I could die with the dangers that the sea might bring about, but if I consider going back here to get to the places we did not see because of the weather, I'll not feel bad about being cautious, right? I don't know how to swim (OA lang).

In the port I realized that it also rained hard, strong enough to bring a tent upside down.
ang bumangga, giba
We ate some barbecue on the way to Romarie Inn while our clothes were dripping wet. We took a bath and talked about how we'll get to Ilocos tomorrow. According to people we have asked in the port, buses to Vigan leave at 1am in Dolozon so I was thinking that we'll pass the night at the terminal. After discussing, we went out to have dinner. It's just right to reward ourselves with a nice dinner so we went in search of restaurants nearby. They said there is a Chinese restaurant there, and we tried looking for it which led us to Cagayan Holiday and Leisure Resort. I was wondering how a hotel like that, so beautiful, posh and extravagant, be built in a remote place like Sta. Ana, no offense. I'm still trying to find out why, I'll have to understand the hotel business first. There was a wedding reception in the restaurant, so the Chinese food plan is busted, but we will not get away without a picture.
we came across a nice hotel
There was a second option though, something Western or Oriental, I can't remember anymore. We asked the guards about it and they said it's quite far and then they offered golf carts to bring us there. Then I asked, "libre?" and he looked puzzled. He asked someone through the radio to send a cart anyway, then I realized that he thought we were guests at the hotel. But then again, there was no available golf cart. Busted once more. So we continued walking and we found this gotohan right across the street of that fabulous hotel and because I'm so hungry already, I insisted that we just eat there. We got to talk to the owner because we were the only customers that time.
lugaw at night
We told her that we are backpackers and that we'll go to Ilocos tomorrow and in a while we'll go to Dolozon terminal to catch the bus. She said it's not the terminal we visualized. It doesn't have proper lighting (actually, she said "madilim dun", nanakot si ate) and there are not a lot of people. But, the bus drops by the gotohan everyday, we can catch it there. After we ate, she gave us her number. When we got to the inn, we fixed our things for tomorrow and went to sleep, it was around 10pm then we woke up at 12 and headed straight to the gotohan. The minute we got out of the gate, it started raining, needle-like raindrops are piercing through my skin again and it was enough to get my bag, clothes, shoes and everything really wet. True enough, the bus was there and the rain stopped when we got in. Define luck.

I am thankful that we had goto instead of Chinese food because if not, we would have to go to the terminal with the possibility of not being able to catch the bus. Tricycles in the province are truly rare specially if it's in the wee hours of the morning. We may not always get what we wanted, but as they say, things happen for a reason. It was almost 2am, and I tried getting some sleep. The third day of my first backpacking trip ended when technically another day has already began. Backpacking is love, Ilocos in a while!

Friday, April 6, 2012

Northern Invasion Second Leg - Palaui, Ika'y Mapapangiti (Part 1)

It was 4:15 when the alarm clock started ringing. As agreed, I was the first in line to use the bathroom for that day. Then the others followed. While having breakfast, Crisel received some text messages from her housemate back in college, Gem. She is going to Palaui Island too with some girl friends. They took the bus to Aparri at 3am, and got off at Dugo (pronounced as dú-go) and from there, took a van to Sta. Ana. It was past 6 already when we left Crisel's house to catch a van bound to Sta. Ana from Tuguegarao, we thought of sticking to our itinerary. 
first trip is 6am so we we're just on time


still waiting for vans
It was a Good Friday, unfortunately, vans in Tuguegarao going to Sta. Ana are rare. So we did what Gem and her friends did. We went to Florida Lines terminal from the van terminal and paid 10 pesos per person for the tricycle ride. Fares at de luxe buses from Tuguegarao to Dugo costs 175 pesos and 75 pesos for regular aircon. We were waiting for the regular aircon which according to someone from the bus company is just refilling its gasoline tank.
waiting for a bus at the GV Florida Lines terminal
But time is ticking away and we were lagging behind schedule (feeling The Amazing Race) so we took the de luxe bus even if the price difference is very unreasonable, comfort costs too much when there is really not much of a difference between the regular and de luxe buses' seats. We arrived at Dugo before 9:30 and took a non-aircon van to Sta. Ana. Fare is 100 pesos, along the way, I saw the mighty sea already. From afar, I have observed some huge waves, this I have deduced from the small white lines suddenly appearing and disappearing amidst the sparkling water caused by the sun's reflection. I heard my heart beating because I have this crazy fear of heights and water and I never learned how to swim and yet this is me going to the Mountain Province or sailing the Philippine Sea. This is how I slowly but surely face my fears.


undeniably a breath-taking view along the way to Sta. Ana
When we got off the van at Sta. Ana, we looked for a tricycle where we can leave our bags and we asked the driver to wait for us with Vincent watching over our things while we are in the public market to buy what we need for camping. This includes canned goods, small knife and casserole, bread, styrofoam containers, six 2-liter bottled water and marshmallows to name a few.  
habang namamalengke
Next task is to look for a room where we can leave our heavy bags to minimize the burden while trekking the forests of Palaui. Unfortunately, the driver did not understand the instruction and he drove us straight to the drop off point, San Vicente Port. So we drove back and on the way, we saw the last kilometer marker in this part of Luzon, KM642. After we found a decent room at Romarie Inn for 800 pesos per night, we left and took off to take a picture with the kilometer marker and have lunch. 

KM 642, the last kilometer marker at this part of Northern Philippines
We had lunch in a carinderia near San Vicente Port. Remember it was Good Friday but we never had enough choices so we bought pork adobo because it will be our last 'real' meal in approximately 1.5 days. They we're selling halo-halo as well and it was just appropriate to ease the summer heat but because we were on the go, we asked if they have disposable cups for the halo-halo. Ate was so nice, she asked someone to buy disposables for us, but it was not available in that very remote area, so no halo-halo for us.
done with lunch
So this is it, after lunch we went to San Vicente Port. We talked to the dispatcher and he handed us a copy of boat rates depending on what you wanted to visit. We did not choose Cape Engaño because we wanted to trek our way there.
boat rates at San Vicente
The arrangement we chose is that we'll be dropped off at the normal entry point to the island and then a boat will fetch us after lunch tomorrow at the coast near the lighthouse. After finalization, we waited for 30 minutes for our boat and to pass the time, we took some pictures. 





San Vicente Port while waiting for our boat
I was observing people getting off from boats from swimming in some island, motor boats here were indeed small, as what Crisel's mom told us. She actually advised us not to go, but we came up here primarily because of Palaui Island, so there is no backing out. Our boat finally arrived from gasoline refilling as what the dispatcher told us. They have life jackets on board, more than enough for everyone so you do not have to worry. We were five in the group and the boat was just enough to accommodate us, the boatman and his companion. But the rate is for 8 people, I don't know where 3 more will fit in. It was sunny that day and the sea was calm. Relief. 
Vincent and Byrone on the boat, wheeeeeeee


They call this Crocodile Island, obviously because of its shape.
The boat ride lasted for 30 minutes, on the way we saw Crocodile Island with the vast sea at the background. After 30 minutes, finally, I was  able to set foot to the land I have been wanting to be in for the past 6 months, welcome to Palaui Island!!!
Hello Palaui Island
It was almost 3:00 when we arrived. A signage will welcome you to the island, obviously they are already in the development phase for tourism. From the writings, I quote...
"Welcome to Palaui Island, here you find different ecosystems in well-preserved conditions, there is a rich variety of flora and fauna in the forest, the tidal flats and coral reefs. This island serves as a refuge for migratory birds and marine life, this is also home for a small island community , we ask you to help in conserving nature and protecting this island for the benefit of present and future generations."
welcome to Palaui Island
We registered first then the guide advised us not to go the lighthouse anymore since the sun will be setting in just a few hours and there will be not enough light for us to see the trail. If we'll go, we need to walk fast and we can't have photo ops along the way. So we decided to dedicate tomorrow for the trekking to Cape Engaño and just go to a nearby falls to pass the time. We  have also learned that they do not allow camping in the area of the lighthouse and they have this dedicated site where campers can pitch their tents and spend the night, it's called Bayanihan Hall. On the way to the hall, you'll pass by the shoreline and a hanging bridge, without anything you can get your hands on for support (mababa lang naman siya, hindi mo ikamamatay kung mahulog ka pero siguradong masasaktan ka lalo na kung may dala kang mabigat na bag).
On the way to Bayanihan hall, ung guide namin ang nasa unahan, bilis maglakad.
This is the first obstacle in Palaui Island.

When we arrived at Bayanihan hall, someone is sleeping on a hammock where we wanted to construct our tents. She woke up and ask us where we are from, and we kinda had a confusing answer because we were not from the same place and literally, we came from Tuguegarao, she was like "Okay, whatever, welcome to the island", maybe she's a native, later we found out that she's like us, a visitor. We started putting up our tents, changed clothes inside, left our bags and then we are on our way to a waterfalls instead, tour guide fee is 250 pesos.
tent pitching


Bayanihan Hall


going to see the waterfalls
On to the next obstacle, the famous hanging bridge which I have read from a number of blogs, so there were already two bridges. I have imagined it to be a means to cross one deep cliff but I was wrong, with the help of the bridge, you'll cross a river which meets the sea amidst a mangrove forest, it becomes submerged if the tide is high which was the case when we were on our way to the waterfalls.
The hanging bridge.
So this was like a teaser to what we'll see the next day en route to Cape Engaño, we have seen the trails like the Lagunzad and Leonardo's (ring a bell) trails. Leonardo's trail is relatively a harder way to get to the lighthouse compared to Lagunzad trail but to get to the falls, we took Leonardo's trail.
Lagunzad Trail


Leonardo's Trail
On the way we saw mountain ranges and a tattered bahay kubo. I realized, this is really the getaway that I wanted, reminds me of my mom's province, the only difference is that this is some place which is unfamiliar, entirely new.


bahay kubo ruined by time
After the open space, we got into the forest, it's 4:30 and it's starting to get pretty dark. 
lost in the woods
We crossed a river, looks like we are getting near the falls. Then I realized it was not like the waterfalls I have already seen, towering while dropping a huge volume of water. The falls is following a path down the mountain, so you have to walk along it's path to get to the top. And by a waterfalls' path, I mean it's steep, not to mention that the black rocks are slippery, their color by the way tells you of their volcanic origin. The rocks are obviously solid hard and some are even pointed, so one wrong move would equate to injury. Judging my history with balancing myself, I can tell that this falls is just not for me...or Bea. Since going up there is steep and slippery, we just waited for the three of  them near the river.
waiting for the boys at the foot of the waterfalls


on a hunt to see the top of the waterfalls
After seeing the waterfalls, we were on our way back to the camp and this time half of the height of the lowest point of the suspension bridge was immersed in water. 


Then we went to the beach to have a quick dip. We laid in the sand and stared at the sky. Haaaaaaaay, I like being nudged by waves with the setting sun, so relaxing.
beach bumming
We headed back to camp (feeling Survivor) after, and took a bath. It's so far from what I have imagined since I expected that there will be no source of fresh water if we'll camp near the lighthouse so it's really something I am thankful for. There are bathrooms for men and women, but when we arrived, the power source, can't anymore light up the fluorescent bulbs in the bathroom so we just refreshed near the pump, Marvin, Bea and I. After that we cooked dinner, camper style, Byrone has this portable gas stove which they borrowed from his and Marvin's  mountaineering club. We cooked 2 cans of corned beef, a can of meatloaf with egg, tuna and rice of course. 


nothing tastes better than a food that was so hard to prepare, here is the meat loaf omelet, wahahaha
 Vincent was already asleep when we finished cooking so we woke him up but he said 'no, thanks', he was just too tired to eat. So we let him and we ate while sharing stories. Corned beef was not a hit so we just threw it away since we do not have a refrigerator where we can keep it for tomorrow's breakfast and I strongly believe that it will be already spoiled by tomorrow. I argued with Marvin for that...hahaha.


kainan na (si Vincent tulog sa loob ng violet na tent)
Then we had marshmallows in a styrofoam container for dessert, we were thinking of a bonfire when we bought it earlier today.


white marshmallows do not really look appealing
After Bea and I cleaned the utensils, lights out and then we went to sleep, end of day 2. I was just so tired!